CASHELL to INVERSNAID.. | |
Woke to a bright and sunny morning, the rain had cleared but had left the tents and groundsheets damp, these soon dried of in the sun. We left Cashell before nine o’clock and headed north for Rowardennan. | |
after the initial mile the route is very beautiful. It skirts tiny deserted beaches of white shingle, much of the time we were among trees, but they are not dense, and it is easy to look across the loch to the steep slopes of Beinn Dubh, and Beinn Bhreac which dominate the western side of the loch. We could see mountains much further north that had majestic snowy crests and I was eager to be amongst them. A tough climb through Ross Wood over the hill and down along the shore again through giant Rhodedendron plants brought us to Rowardennan. | |
. These four miles had taken about three hours and we were very pleased to stretch out in the sun on the shore near the hotel for half an hour before calling in for a pint and lunch. This is quite a tourist area, the road comes as far as here, as also does a ferry from the west shore of the lake, but beyond here, is about fifteen miles of wild rocky terrain exclusive to walkers, except for the point where a road comes down to meet the ferry at Inversnaid. Although we took the higher easier route at the alternative beyond Rowardennan we still found it very hard work. By now the day was really hot and this did not help.
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About three miles before Inversnaid we came upon some of the wild goats grazing quite near the track, they ignored us, they must be used to seeing walkers. Shortly after this, we met a party of girls among the bouldery track obviously struggling a little, they asked ‘how far to Rowardennan’?’ as they had about four miles still to go I would guess that they would be very tired on arrival, they looked so fragile on what I consider is some of the most sustained awkward walking I have ever done. I imagine that they had been dropped of by minibus or similar at Inversnaid to walk the eight miles to Rowardennan | |
I was really worn out, too tired even to look at the famous Arklet Falls and Snaid Burn, all I wanted to do was sink a pint in the Inversnaid Hotel, I really felt dehydrated. We were a bit disappointed to find that only restaurant meals were served on an evening, and as I had not shaved for days I really did not feel like mixing with the tourist trade which is prevalent here.
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Just beyond the hotel we met a group of ladies in high spirits, walking the way north to south. They had come from Crianlarich and now that they were in sight of their bed & breakfast were relaxing in the sun, they had a back up car which was to bring their luggage for them. I took a group photograph for them at their request. A few hundred yards further an we were at the old boathouse that marked the camping place recommended by the Inversnaid hotel. It was an excellent place, close to the loch shore, had its own little burn and with wonderful views across the lake. Already at the site was a backpacker that we were to meet up with several times over the next few days, he came from the London area and was traveling alone. Soon after pitching camp I was approached by a young American who told me that he and his two friends were in a fix, there was no accommodation left at the hotel. He wondered if the could possibly squeeze in with us I told him "No chance".. We did see them afterwards on the route as far as Inveraran but I think they packed in there I really liked this camp, the little burn tinkled just a few yards from the tent and we had a super boulder and shingle beach by the loch where I was able to strip off and have a really good wash. Later I sat among the boulders till sundown, a few midges turned up but 'jungle formula’ repellent put paid to them. The loch is quite narrow at this point and the mountains across the water seem close. I think they are the Arochar Alps. . ...This is a fine place to be, but hell to walk to, |